Best Walks around Marramarra National Park

Four months of enforced COVID-19 lockdown in Sydney from July to October 2021 gave me the perfect opportunity to discover every trail offered in my Local Government Area (LGA). I live in the Hornsby LGA which borders the Hills, Central Coast, Northern Beaches, Ku-Ring-Gai, Ryde, and Parramatta LGAs. It is a massive area measuring 455 km² which includes Muogamarra Nature Reserve, Berowra Valley National Park, Marramarra National Park, and parts of Ku-Ring-Gai Chase National Park.

With permission to exercise in my LGA, I took this opportunity to explore all the tracks and fire trails within the Berowra Valley and Marramarra National Parks I hadn’t visited before, despite living in this wonderful bushland my entire life. I explored almost every trail north of Berowra Waters and kept to the east side of Old Northern Road until this road ends at Wisemans Ferry Wharf. The only trails I missed are those on tracts of land within Marramarra National Park boundaries that the government has sold off to private individuals. ‘Keep Out’, ‘STOP’, ‘Private Road’ and ‘DO NOT TRESPASS’ signs will give you good warning on whether you can or can’t traverse these routes.

Rated from best to least favourite walk, I have based my ranking on my personal preferences for views, trees, interesting scenery, flowers, and challenges. Those nominated at the end of the list are typically easy, flat fire trails. Many are also service-access roads to electricity pylons. While the pylons may seem invasive, they do not detract from the enjoyment of the walk. Many offer great vantage points for sweeping views, particularly of the mighty Hawkesbury River and Berowra Waters.

I was fortunate to do these walks before hazard reduction burns. I believe Smuggler’s Ridge Walk, sections of Canoelands, Duckponds, and Peebles Rd Trails have recently been burnt, possibly detracting from their appeal but it’s a necessary practice to avoid calamitous fire events leading to the destruction of large tracts of land and the potential loss of lives and property. Most areas will recover. Opening the canopy so sunlight can reach the forest floor encourages germination and regrowth of native vegetation, often promoting new wildflowers. Removing low-growing underbrush also reduces competition for nutrients and allows established trees to grow stronger and healthier.

The shorter walks are ideal for those new to bushwalking or casual walkers who crave an easy stroll outdoors. Always wear suitable footwear, preferably hiking shoes or boots, and take a sun hat. Pack a lightweight day pack with adequate hydration, snacks, basic first aid, insect repellant, and sunscreen. If you need support walking, bring a trekking pole or two or fashion a staff from a broken branch found on the trail.

You are right to go. Before you know it, you’ll be attempting the harder, more challenging hikes. Better still, you are getting outdoors, breathing fresh air, living in the present, and reaping the benefits of nature and its surroundings. Enjoy my picks!

1. Canoelands Ridge Fire Trail to Gentlemans Halt campground

Length:

Approx. 19-22km return

Time:

Full day (6-8hrs) or overnight at Gentlemans Halt campground

Branches:

One to Gentlemans Halt campground. The other, the River Route, 1km further along ridgeline to an electricity pylon.

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Moderate, with steep slippery fire trail in parts. Total ascent 745m. Descent to Gentlemans Halt is hard with a short steep scramble to the campsite near mangroves.

Location:

Trackhead starts at about 64 Canoelands Road, Canoelands. Look for a small car park on your left.

Recommend:

At least one trekking pole for balance on a crumbly loose pebbled fire trail and for the steep descent to Gentlemans Halt. If attempting this exposed walk during the summer months, bring plenty of water, sunscreen, and a protective hat.

Description:

The track descends via a long ridge to the campground on the Hawkesbury River. Most of the route is a wide fire trail, with the last couple of kilometres to Gentlemans Halt a rough bushwalking track with scrambling required.

Today I intended to walk to Gentlemans Halt campsite but when I saw the steep descent at the 1.7km signpost, I did a hasty retreat. Walking solo, with no PLB or death wish, I retreated and headed to the alternative moderate-graded river view track.

I recommend Gentlemans Halt as an overnighter to recharge your battery and tackle that brutal ascent the following day. Or you may choose to access it by boat. According to others who have ventured there, the campground is a large, grassy area with plenty of space. It is quiet and there’s a good chance you’ll have the place to yourself. There are toilets, but no access to drinking water. If you arrive by boat, bring timber to enjoy a campfire in a designated spot.

For me, it was an epic walk in every way. There are water views of the mighty Hawkesbury River in multiple locations. Plenty of bird life-skittish lyrebirds, raucous yellow-crested black cockatoos, whip, and bellbirds. As for wildflowers, I did not find the promised waratahs when I attempted this walk in late winter, but I feasted on Gymea lilies, cliff-sprouting native orchids, boronia, bitter peas, flannel, and pink wax flowers. Overhanging rock ledges, caves, and unusually shaped eucalypts capped off this hike’s wealth of offerings.

I consider this fire trail walk a hidden gem, with varied views of the Hawkesbury the entire way and the strong possibility of contemplative solitude for your entire time on the trail. If you can only do one walk in Marramarra National Park, I rate this the best.

2. Neverfail Fire Trail to Collingridge Point & Coba Point via Coba Ridge Track

Length:

Approx. 18km

Time:

6 hours if attempting both.

Branches:

Two from Neverfail Fire Trail. One to Coba Point, 5km one way. The other, to Collingridge Point, 9km one way.

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Easy, level fire trails

Location:

Trackhead starts at end of Bloodwood Rd, Fiddletown

Description:

Coba Point and Collingridge Point offer different and interesting views of the Hawkesbury River and Berowra Waters away from the usual vantage points. It was great spotting the suburbs of Cowan and Berowra Heights from the other side.

With overcast light to the north and west and much brighter light in an easterly direction, today’s walk offered many interesting photo opportunities. Loved the eerie light thrown on the Sydney red gums (Angophora Costatas) at the sandstone cliff edges with their wonderful curly and gnarled limbs. Coba Point is a glorious spot to view Marramarra Creek in the distance, and Coba and Berowra Creeks meeting the Hawkesbury River at Bar Island just off Fisherman’s Point.

3. Marramarra Ridge Trail, Kulpas Track and Smugglers Ridge Track

Length:

Approx. 23.5km if all branches completed

Time:

Full day or overnight at either Orchard or Main Marramarra campgrounds.

Branches:

Three. Steep out and back. Kulpas Trail leads to no views of Coba Bay. Descend via Marramarra Ridge Trail. Ascend via Smugglers Ridge Track.

Type:

Loop with Kulpas as side out and back trail.

Grade:

Moderate, with steep slippery fire trail in parts. 677m ascent.

Location:

Turn left at last left-hand fork near the end of Bloodwood Rd, Fiddletown. Continue on a dirt road for a few kilometres before parking in a designated parking area on your right.

Recommend:

Ascend via Smugglers Ridge Track to avoid slipping on leaf matter on steep sections of this track.

Description:

Plenty of white, pink, and yellow spring wildflowers today, together with flowering gums and wattle. We took the short steep Kulpas Track first in search of a promising view of Coba Bay. Instead, the track rewarded us with a dirty creek bed and a hefty ascent. Not to be discouraged, we then descended via Marramarra Ridge Trail to Orchard and Marramarra campsites. An abandoned orchard with trees covered in Spanish moss still bears juicy oranges in June each year according to the official Visitors Book. The Marramarra campsite boasts an impressive pit toilet. We then carried our panting selves up Smugglers Ridge Track through typical Hawkesbury sandstone bushland before joining the dirt access road to return to the car park.

If you prefer bushwalking, I recommend you go out and back on the Smugglers Ridge Track alone. It is certainly a more scenic and interesting route. The only reason to descend via the Marramarra Fire Trail is that it avoids a potentially difficult descent on Smuggler’s Ridge Track, where you may slip on the abundant dry leaf matter that covers the path.  

4. Waddell Ridge Fire Trail to Banks Creek via Yurt’s Track

Length:

Approx. 6-8km

Time:

2 hours

Branches:

One. Yurt’s Track, very faint, branches off Waddell Ridge Fire Trail to your right near the end, just before the main trail winds up a slight hill.

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Moderate

Location:

Trackhead starts at end of Calabash Road, Fiddletown.

Description:

Nothing but a steep fire trail, they said. It pleasantly surprised me to see a wealth of white grevilleas, banksias, wattles, and boronia on this moderate 2hr out and back walk. A lovely short descending bushwalk on Yurt’s Track from the end of the fire trail leads you to Banks Creek with an interesting cave on the way.

Worth a visit if looking for a quiet track with only bird sounds and distant neighing from nearby rural properties.

5. One Tree Hill Trail off Weavers Ridge Trail

Length:

Approx. 16km exploring every branch

Time:

Full day or 3-4hrs for the southerly section of One Tree Hill Trail which branches off Weavers Ridge Trail.

Branches:

Six

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Easy. 88m ascent with a moderate scramble to a rocky outcrop at end of One Tree Hill Trail for epic Hawkesbury River views.

Location:

Consult map apps to find Weavers Rd, Weavers, off Old Northern Rd which weaves, pardon the pun, through farmland to access Weavers Ridge Trail. If you pass a cream-coloured container home on your left with a precarious lean to it, you are on the right road. Drive a short distance past Marramarra National Park sign to gate with room for 2-3 cars.

Description:

I’ve always wanted to include the words ‘dry sclerophyll forest’ in one of my descriptions. I think I found plenty of evidence today. These highly flammable forests, woodland, heath, and scrublands occupy 80% of Marramarra National Park. Pleasant, easy. One of the nicest fire trail walks.

I found a red car, clearly labelled ‘red car’ on one door in case you had any doubt. In contrast, there were plenty of lovely new myrtle bushes, pink-tinged wattle, and purple splendour to erase memories of this eyesore of a car wreck. Enjoy the lovely views of the mighty Hawkesbury River instead.

6. Peebles Road Fire Trail

Length:

Approx. 6.3km to Branch 7 only.

Time:

1-2 hrs

Branches:

I can identify 5 on the map although the branch I veered towards was signposted ‘Branch 7’.

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Easy. 17m ascent.

Location:

Trackhead starts at the end of Peebles Road, Fiddletown

Recommend:

Good beginners’ hike. Also suitable for horse riding and mountain biking.

Description:

Flat, sandy, easy trail. I found wildflowers, interesting trees, and the remains of a trig station. Plenty of interesting white flowers on this stretch. Observed longleaf smokebush (Conospermum longifolium), a shrub from the Proteaceae family; slender rice flowers (Pimelea linifolia) from the Thymelaeaceae family and Zieria, from the Rutaceae family, like boronia except they have four stamens where boronia has eight.

There are various branches to explore. I chose Branch 7 for a nice view as the setting sun approached. Plenty of light remained to return to my car before I needed to use a head torch.

7. Fretus Hotel Ruin at Calabash Point

Length:

7.6km

Time:

2-3 hours

Branches:

One. Note the track leading to waterfront properties is private access for residents only.

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Easy although fire trail is steep in parts.

Location:

Trackhead starts at end Mccallums Road, Berrilee

Recommend:

Alltrails shows that this fire trail passes through multiple parcels of private property and is not part of the National Park. I did not meet any objections from nearby property owners, but they are well within their rights to ask you to leave the fire trail if they don’t wish to give you permission to enter. Pity. There’s good local history to be seen here.

Description:

For a hotel that never got off the ground, they knew how to build solid straight walls and level doorways, unlike today’s project homes. Marvel at the remnants, with plastered walls decimated by graffitied initials dating back to the 1930s and sprouting trees within. Hotelier John Fretus transported the sandstone by steamer from his former San Souci Hotel to Calabash Point. Promised road access never eventuated. Abandoned, its fate was sealed when a fire finally destroyed it. A few steep sections but a great local history walk with pleasant views of Berowra Creek from the ruins.

8. Simpsons Hill Trail

Length:

Approx. 6km

Time:

2-3 hours

Branches:

Three, each leading to electricity pylons.

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Easy fire trail. 93m ascent.

Location:

Trackhead starts from small car park on Laughtondale Gully Road a few kilometres from Old Northern Rd, Maroota.

Description:

Simpsons Hill Trail is a service trail with every tributary leading to an electricity pylon. Still, I found filtered Hawkesbury River views through curly, rough bark eucalypts, tea trees with their delicate white flowers, purple flag irises, mat rushes, and a dense grove of Gymea lilies. Some rubbish and a telecommunications tower but an easy fire trail which feels open and remote.

9. Calabash Ridge Fire Trail

Length:

Approx. 6km

Time:

One hour + depending on the number of branches you wish to explore.

Branches:

Several. Nice walking tracks off the main fire trail, mainly on the left-hand side.

Type:

Fire Trail Loop with several walking tracks branching from it.

Grade:

Easy

Location:

Trackhead starts over halfway along Calabash Road, Berrilee at a small parking area.

Recommend:

Watch out for mountain bikers and horse riders with whom you will share this track.

Description:

Not to be confused with the Waddell Ridge Fire Trail, this trail also starts from Calabash Road. It is located a few kilometres short of the end of Calabash Road, on the right-hand side.

While a simple fire trail, I found it definitely has its own appeal. I found one of the largest flat sandstone rock platforms ever, 250mtrs from the entrance on your right.

There are heaps of wildflowers to observe here during springtime. This area also has a great showing of the dwarf or scrub rough-barked apple tree (angophora hispida) which grow to around 6 metres. They are so different to their majestic cousin, the smooth-barked apple tree (angophora costata) which grow to 25 metres, but they have their own unique appeal.

There is a myriad of side trails off the main trail that kids and adults can visit by foot or bike. Although short, you’ll have no trouble killing a few hours here if you explore every side trail. Calabash Ridge Trail is a nice find which will appeal to a variety of ages and interests.

10. Duckponds Ridge Trail

Length:

Approx. 6km

Time:

1-2 hours

Branches:

Two. I did not explore the two found on the right-hand side near the start.

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Easy to moderate, with extremely steep 20min. descent at end with no views, ducks or easy access to Marramarra Creek. 29m ascent.

Location:

Trackhead starts on a dirt service road. Signposted with a butchered ‘D’, which looks more like an ‘F’, you’ll understand its significance after you complete the walk. To get here veer right to a dirt side road off Old Northern Road – a few kilometres past Short Street, Forest Glen on your right.

Recommend:

Do this walk if you’ve done all the rest.

Description:

Signs of new life after a recent hazard reduction burn, with vivid green leaves emerging from grass trees and a thriving delicately flowering Myrtaceae bush called tribe chamelaucieae. However, I can’t see much life being salvaged from the car ruins.

Overall, easy, but the killer descent at the end seems totally unnecessary. A shaded turning circle is your only reward. I rested briefly here enjoying native birds’ melodic mating calls and song before tackling a steep 20-minute climb. Essentially a fire trail, neither dreadful nor memorable.

11. Forest Glen Trail

Length:

Approx. 5km

Time:

1-2 hours

Branches:

Two short ones (not explored).

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Easy, flat. 17m ascent.

Location:

Trackhead starts at end of Short Street, Forest Glen.

Description:

Another power line trail. Not in my top three, but it’s not without its merits. I recommend visiting in spring when the track is awash with native wildflowers. Bitter peas (Daviesia), blue lady orchid (Thelymitra crinata), pyramid flowers (Comesperma ericinum), ‘cascade of stars’ wax flower (Philotheca), curly sedge (Caustis recurvata) and hop bushes (Dodonaea) line both sides of the trail. Absolutely no bush bashing required to see these wonderful specimens.  

12. Cairnes Road Trail

Length:

Approx. 5km

Time:

1-2hrs

Branches:

One with semi loop onto private land before exiting to your car on Cairnes Road.

Type:

Out and back with alternative loop return.

Grade:

Easy, level trail. 28m ascent.

Location:

Trackhead starts at end of Cairnes Road, Glenorie. Walk along a private road first to access. Plenty of obstacles along the way. ‘Unauthorised crown land’ sign, the ‘un’ conveniently erased, and a surveillance camera sign act as deterrents, but they did not discourage me.

Recommend:

Be prepared to be questioned and ask nicely for permission to access Cairnes Road Fire Trail, a lovely peaceful walk in typical Aussie bushland.

Description:

Nice bushland. There is a lovely grove of smooth bark apple or Sydney red gums (angophora costatas) on the alternative exit loop at the end.

13. Ben Bullen Road Trail

Length:

Approx. 4-5km

Time:

1-2hrs

Branches:

One new track marked with pink ribbon is being created along Colah Creek

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Easy with a moderate quick climb back out.

Location:

End Ben Bullen Road off Cairnes Road, Glenorie

Recommend:

Insect repellent. Lots of annoying black flies or gnats in sections.

Description:

Another trail nearby with pink ribbons shows an extended trail is being created along Colah Creek at the end of Ben Bullen Road Trail. I spotted colourful purple Bauera Rubioides on the way down, named in honour of brothers Ferdinand and Franz Bauer, Austrian botanical illustrators. I’d be interested in returning here in a few years’ time to see how far they take this Colah Creek track. They might take it to the creek’s source in the nearby suburb of Galston.  

14. Blake Ridge Trail

Length:

Approx. 5km

Time:

On private land. Inaccessible.

Branches:

Electricity pylon service trail

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Unknown

Location:

Starts at end of Canoelands Road, unfortunately, a Private ‘No Access’ Road for the last kilometre or two. Do not drive your car past this sign.

Recommend:

Must seek property owners’ permission to access this section or ring NPWS ranger for further clarification on walker access.

Description:

Not attempted due to private access.

15. Roberts Road Trail (No access)

Length:

Approx. 9km

Time:

On private roads. Inaccessible.

Branches:

Three to four branches

Type:

Out and back

Grade:

Unknown

Location:

Track head starts on Ashdale Trail off Old Northern Road, Maroota or at the end of Roberts Road (Private ‘No Access’ Road), off Old Telegraph Road, off Old Northern Road, Maroota.

Recommend:

Must seek property owners’ permission to access this section.

Description:

Not attempted due to private access.