“It was the process, not the deed, which was interesting. It was the completing, not the completion, which was really vital.”
Kakuzõ Okakura, The Book of Tea, 1906
Four years have passed since I last walked the Pacific Crest Trail. I still can’t get it out of my mind. This year, 2023, I made a momentous decision. I returned solo to the High Sierra in central California to walk the John Muir Trail (JMT) in one of its highest-recorded snowpack years.
I didn’t do it the easy way. Unsuccessful in securing a JMT Permit, my Plan B was to apply for a PCT Permit, which predominantly traversed the same route. The only catch is that I had to walk 300 more miles. In January, I secured a 500-mile (800 km) PCT Permit.
This would see me start the PCT walking southbound (SoBo) from Chester to Lone Pine. I started on July 23 and finished my hike 7 weeks later exiting down the precarious 99 switchback Mt Whitney Portal route on September 9, 2023. I successfully crossed the Sierra Nevada Ranges, the John Muir territory I so longed to see in 2019, in one of the highest snowpacks ever recorded.
The PCT hadn’t changed one bit. It still knocks you about mentally, physically, and emotionally. The logistical challenges continued. It tested me physically more than ever before. Age may have played a part, but I recognised the drama of falling through a snow bridge, being gored by a torn limb from a fallen fir tree and nearly dying in a snow blizzard near Mt Whitney’s peak. I was lucky to survive. Emotionally, I remained strong. I had to be brave, cautious, level-headed, and clear-thinking if I was to get out of there alive.
Watch this space for more stories as I continue to digest the second part of my PCT journey. I look forward to sharing more of my adventures with you soon.
It is now June 2025. I have written nothing about my epic 2nd section hike of the PCT, apart from articles in several magazines and radio interviews. I am content in the knowledge I pushed myself beyond my skill level and existing diabetic medical limitations to complete the much sought-after High Sierra section of the trail without serious mishap.
This trail makes me feel so alive. It gives me purpose. A reason to live. The excuse to be daring. To think only of myself and my ability to survive. To question what I want out of life and not be afraid to try. To give me solace to heal old wounds and refresh myself for life’s inevitable new challenges. To give the world ‘the ‘best version of myself’ who is open to new friendships and giving back to others. And provide me with wonderful memories I can cherish for the rest of my life.
Still, I haven’t walked all the way from Mexico to Canada yet. I’ve done the desert in Southern California, I’ve walked the entire state of Washington and I returned in 2023 to complete the Sierra Nevada section of the trail in Central California. I’ve relied on the kindness of strangers and trail angels to transport me to some of the most scenic sections of the trail, such as Crater Lake and South Lake Tahoe. I’ve walked both northbound (NoBo) and southbound (SoBo) directions when high snow conditions necessitated reroutes.
The journey is long at 4,300kms (2,672 miles). To-date I’ve walked over 3,600kms of the trail, some sections twice. Yes, it’s the journey, not the destination that counts. And yes, I don’t need to go back to prove I can walk a long way. Seriously, nobody cares about my intentions, reasons, or motivation. Or whether I walk the full distance. What drives me to go back is the opportunity to experience this awe-inspiring trail one last time. I can’t get enough of it but the demands of the trail will test my ageing body. It’s now or never.
This June in 2025 I will be returning to the midway point near the town of Chester, and walking 1300kms northbound through Northern California and all of Oregon, finishing at ‘The Bridge of The Gods’ on the Columbia River which marks the border between Oregon and Washington states. Join me on Facebook or Instagram to follow my journey. Adiós, my friends!
I returned to Australia in late August, 1 week prior to my 65th birthday, and I am thrilled to announce I successfully completed walking the Pacific Crest Trail over 3 summer seasons. There was a nasty virus I caught at the very beginning which robbed me of my voice for nearly two weeks, an official PCT fire closure between Etna and Seiad Valley which shortened the journey by 4 days, and the opportunity to hike fast over Oregon’s flatter terrain.
Within a 5-day period, when the terrain was at its most level, I hiked my first ever and then second marathon distance. If I thought the PCT in this section would remain easy the trail quickly set me right. The trail is a challenge whatever part of it you are on.
Northern California had a heat wave for 3 weeks, regularly topping the mercury at 100F (37C). Water sources were scarce and they continued to be troublesome throughout Oregon. I needed a 3am alarm wake-up for a 4.30am departure to beat the heat and lessen heavy water carries by hiking in the coolest part of the day. Meal and rest breaks remained brief, 1hour’s duration all up, with the rest of the time spent walking to cover the daily mileage, which averaged 20 miles.
While elevation in Oregon doesn’t go much above 7,500ft, it was not without its challenges. Switchbacks help, but there were invariably two steep ascents each day that heralded the inevitable sighs and moans. And the terrain was brutal in parts, particularly the volcanic lava fields and the high number of burn zones. Without a single tree for shelter, these areas became unbearable in the searing heat of the day. And concentration was key to avoid falling in these sections.
Throw in the usual logistical challenges of how to get hitches from trailheads to nearby towns for resupply and rest, and the Pacific Crest Trail continues to test your limits. Maybe getting older makes it seem a little harder each year. All I know is I persisted with this hike over six years, I was well versed in what I was getting myself into, and I’m thrilled to announce I did it. I finally walked the whole way from the Mexican border to the Canadian border through California, Oregon and Washington states. I unreservedly believe it is the best thing I’ve ever done in my life.
Sorry, wonderful children and husband. You matter too, but this is a personal achievement I am most proud of. I encourage everyone to pursue something to the very end if it appeals to you. It won’t be easy. Nothing is, but the sheer joy of accomplishment is what makes it worthwhile.
This quote resonates with me. It’s how I feel about the Pacific Crest Trail. Go find your everyday thought!
“Never give up on something that you can’t go a day without thinking about.” – Winston Churchill
